Eye See Dubya (ICW) – the good, the bad, and the ugly

Don’t worry – Bahamas photos aplenty are coming your way soon!

But in the mean time, before we totally let the turquoise waters wash away our memories of the past couple of months, here are a few highlights and lowlights of our trip from Norfolk, Virginia to Miami, Florida.

Most deceiving waterway name:  Dismal Swamp Canal, Virginia

This short stretch right after Norfolk was some of the most picturesque waterway we saw the whole way down.  It captured the feeling of autumn more than the Hudson and Erie Canal combined.

Least serene anchorage: Mile Hammock Bay, North Carolina

100% humidity, tornardo warnings in the SE, rainbows amongt torrential downpours, army helicopters and black ops officers doing dinghy drills on the “don’t even think about going to land” restricted zone, and the circus show of too many snowbirds learning to set anchors with strong wind in bad holding.

Best site for sore eyes (/cold bones):  Saint John’s Yacht Harbor, South Carolina

After a long and cold stretch through North Carolina, the spectacular shower facilities at St John’s, coupled with the timing of a Thanksgiving break with family, warmed us up both physically and in spirits, which were low and needing some warmth.

Best reason to slog through the marshes of Georgia: Cumberland Island, GA

Easily one of our most cherished memories is this nature preserve and all round magical place.  We hope it will stay undeveloped and preserved for future generations.

Best place to learn the art of keeping a sailboat in one place without an anchor: Southern Florida 

Paraphrasing a sailing quote, anybody can make a boat move, but it takes some skill to keep one in the same spot.  Try doing that with a couple knots of current pushing you towards a bascule bridge that doesn’t open for 15 minutes, coupled with the hoards of motor boats and jet skis that blast by you, and then do it every few miles for a couple of days.  OR sail outside and skip it!

Best reward for making the 1095 mile trek: Key Biscayne

Although we were obviously keen to go to the Bahamas, I’ll admit it:  it was really nice in Key Biscayne (just south of Miami).  It was hot.  The water was beautiful and turquoise.  We had a great anchor spot in well-protected No Name Harbour, and the town of Key Biscayne has all the upscale amenities you could want, plus hilarious golf carts driving on roads beside luxury vehicles.

 

VICTORY

It’s crazy, but we’re here!!

We had waited for over a week for a weather window (I know, not that long, but you try with 4 months of anticipation building behind you!), and when it finally came we were excited.  UNFORTUNATELY, I (Caitie) woke up to rather aggressive lightning and rain around 2am before our planned 5am departure.  4:30am came and it was raining harder than we had seen this entire trip, with consistent lightning strikes to the south.  Frustrations were high – we had already “staged” (prepped and moved anchor to be closer to the sea) and were ready to GO.

When the US Coast Guard came on the radio at 4:30am and announced a Small Craft Advisory and high winds, which completely contrasted the JUST released NOAA forecast online, I was pissed.  Having spent a lot of the past week reading Bruce Van Sant’s “Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South“, I was adamant not to take any “third party” weather at face value, so I called the Coast Guard to verify their radio announcement.

And, can you believe it – they had made an error.  It was yesterday’s forecast.  I knew that it didn’t match what was posted but wasn’t willing to cancel our planned crossing just yet, and when they confirmed that there was NO small craft advisory, we decided to give it a go.

And although it was a higher risk crossing, given the thunderstorms still looming nearby, we had a safe and easy passage.  Frankly, it was easier than the average shallow draft day on the ICW.

So, 120 nautical miles later, here we are in the Berry Islands, eating conch fritters, drinking rum punches, and celebrating a hard earned destination:  Bahamas.

1/4 of the boats packed into No Name Harbour

1/4 of the boats packed into No Name Harbour

Madman

Madman

Last sunset in the USA!

Last sunset in the USA!

http://youtu.be/p0OX_8YvFxA

click this pic. you’re welcome.

The joys of working underwater

Now that the water is a bit clearer (and warmer) it was time to break out the snorkel gear and check out the boat beneath the waterline!  Fun stuff, eh?

We discovered:

The good – The coat of antifouling paint we applied before we left is holding up great!  No barnacles to be seen – woo hoo!

The bad – Our zincs (sacrificial metal that is supposed to corrode before your propeller does) have mostly corroded away…and by mostly, I mean MOSTLY.  For sailors, it’s hard not to cringe at the sight of the photo below…

Crumbling away…

 

So today, was zinc replacement day :)  We didn’t want to go for a haul out, so this meant gearing up and getting in the water.

I learned a couple cool tricks via the interwebs:

– Tie string to all tools you plan on using underwater (lanyards around the wrist) – this was a no-brainer.

– Duct tape the anodes together (across one side of the split) to keep the halves from falling apart when trying to get it on the shaft – this one was actually really helpful because it would have been hard to tighten both screws in one breath of air

– Wear one glove on your left hand (assuming you’re right handed) to wedge bolts into when you’re diving…(no, not just because you’re trying to do your best underwater moonwalk)

– Paint nail polish in key areas to avoid corrosion around bolts

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Tools of the trade

 

Impossible to look cool in a snorkel mask.  Believe me, I tried.

It’s impossible to look cool in a snorkel mask. Believe me, I tried.

Victory!

Victory!

 

It was a major success getting the (2) new anodes on.  I got to use my shorty wetsuit (though I probably didn’t need to), the snorkel gear, and tools…underwater!  It felt good getting this one done.  Officially crossed off the list, with more projects to come.

No Name Harbour (Part 1)

We are now sitting in No Name Harbour in Key Biscayne!

We’d heard about this anchorage as the “go-to place to wait for a weather window” for a crossing to the Bahamas, and we weren’t sure what to expect…I’d envisioned a packed/busy place with lots of amenities (like most of Florida), and Caitie envisioned the opposite.  Honestly, it’s kind of nestled perfectly in between.  We have enough room to anchor (though it is a little tight amongst the 20 other boats here), and there are washrooms. pump out facilities, and a restaurant/bar that makes a great grilled snapper ;).  On the other hand there is no fuel, no water, and no access to provisions.  The anchorage is in the middle of a natural park, so there are walking trails and beaches, etc. etc. etc., (though honestly we haven’t had much chance to explore – we hope to take some photos tomorrow/this weekend to do a proper update later…see part 2).

Frankly, we are in GO mode.  This is our last chance to get our shit together in the US and we want to make sure we have enough food, spares, and supplies to make it in the Bahamas (and potentially beyond).  First thing we did when we arrived was to rent a car.  We spent an entire 8 hour day (yesterday) hitting major marine stores and filling our CNG tanks.  We even managed to hit the Westerbeke distribution center just outside of Miami to stock up on all the necessary engine-related parts (and manuals) at rock-bottom prices.  We felt great, despite now having worn out our credit cards :S

And yes, I treated myself to some fishing supplies – including a hawaiian sling for spear fishing 😉

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Honestly, this isn’t even 1/4 of the stuff we have purchased as spares/provisions/toys…

When we got back to the boat today, we re-did our TO-DO list.  Every boater knows this is never ending, and for us it’s the same way.  It was a good opportunity to re-prioritize what we need to work on, and to appreciate the fact that we have actually done a lot…

Here’s a snapshot.  DONE:

  • Put top batten in main
  • Re-rig lazy jacks
  • Tighten reefing lines
  • Install lower slug/hank for main
  • Replace toilet seat hinges
  • Fix coolant leak
  • Tighten throttle cable
  • Check rigging and tighten shrouds
  • Tighten ignition key/instrument panel
  • Build solar panel stainless steel frame
  • Install solar panels
  • Drill weep hole in mast step
  • Install filter for foot pump in galley
  • Replace all batteries, and add 100ah to house bank
  • Install battery monitor
  • Install LED lights
  • Fix wiring for high output alternator

TO-DO starting tomorrow (and hard to read):

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Honestly, thus far on the trip, we haven’t let ourselves settle into a place, so it’s really nice to just have some time to relax and work on things at our own pace (in nice weather!)

Lastly, here are some random self-indulgent shots, for the sake of completeness.

SUNRISE!  Leaving Lake worth.  First day on the ocean in a loooong time.

SUNRISE! Leaving Lake worth. First day on the ocean in a loooong time.

Ft. Lauderdale Mc. Mansions

Ft. Lauderdale Mc. Mansions

Cutie

Cutie

My boat is bigger than your boat.

My boat is bigger than your boat.

Tall buildings looking tall

Tall buildings looking tall

Like Vancouver, but with palm trees :)

Like Vancouver, but with palm trees :)

Miami Skyline at night

Miami Skyline at night

Merry Xmas! It’s almost 2015…

Soooooooo….We stashed the boat at Titusville Municipal Marina (Florida), and went back to South Carolina for Christmas.  It was a quick jaunt back, and honestly we didn’t really shoot any photos while we were there.  Oh well.  We were too focused on kickin’ it old school with my brother and cousins Annie and Mickey…Been way too long…

On our last day, we decided to make a sign representing all the places that people had traveled from/called home.  It was fun!  Everyone took their own creative liberties.  Here’s to adding more signs to the list in the future 😉

Xmas SIgn

Now we’re back on the boat and tackling projects (12v fans, solar panels, toilet seat hinges, mast boots, jerrican holders, etc. etc.).  We’re slowly checking them off the list.

p.s. I received a GoPro for Christmas (thanks Grandpa!), and this is the first video/test.  Caitie says I need to up the “wow factor”.  I suppose that’s reasonable feedback.

Caitie’s BIRTHDAY!

Caitie said one of her “bucket list” items was to celebrate a birthday in a warm place (those poor December babies!) and I think we’ve finally checked it off.  We’re anchored in Daytona Beach, Florida, and Caitie turned the big 3-0 today (which apparently is the new 20).

We hit it hard with coffee n’ cinnamon buns in the morning, had a gorgeous sunny day on the water, followed by a champagne crab leg feast once we’d anchored.

Happy birthday Caitie!!!

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