Category: Surprises

White point “Bonsai”

In May of last year, we went to Japan.  It was an amazing experience – I could write a hundred posts detailing how incredible the experience was (but I’ll spare you).

During one of our exploration days out of Tokyo, Caitie indulged me and hopped on the train out to Omiya, which is a town that hosts several Bonsai nurseries, and even a Bonsai Museum.  Even though it was blisteringly hot, we managed to check out some amazing 100+ year old trees…in pots :)

Now, I’ve had a weird fascination with bonsai for a long time.  Going to Omiya was like making a small pilgrimage in a way…Now here we are in the Bahamas, and as I was strolling around the bluffs at White Point, I saw tons of wind-swept/weathered trees that reminded me of our visit to Omiya last year.

Caitie will laugh, but here is my inspiration.

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Broke Down (and Out)

Ok, first of all – we are safe, as of writing this post, and the boat is too.  But it was a challenging few days after our first engine failure of the trip, which happened this week (on Valentine’s day, but who’s counting?).

We were en route to black point from Georgetown in the Exumas to meet Caitie’s parents for a week visit when we heard a squeal and a hint of burning coming from our Diesel engine.  We cut it quickly (thankfully) and after a quick series of deductions and tests discovered that our fresh water circulating pump (that which circulates the coolant) had seized and was not allowing our alternator vee belt to cycle around.   Despite spending a lot of time and money organizing spares for this trip, this, of course, was not one of them, so there was no easy way to fix it on the spot.  We were headed almost directly upwind and there was no way we could sail to black point before dark, especially since this involved getting through one of the high current cuts from the Exuma sound (aka ocean) side of the islands to the bank (aka shallow) side.

Since there is no real coast guard or towing service here, we issued a pan pan and luckily had two high powered dinghies come assist to pilot us in through a cut and onto anchor.  This went smoothly enough, except for the fact that we were now anchored at an uninhabited island, 30 miles from civilization and our newly arrived guests.  To add insult to injury, our cell phone cards had unexpectedly expired and we had no email or phone communications.  DRAMA!

After taking our dinghy to a few nearby sailboats we managed to get an email out to Caitie’s parents as well as a weather check to decide what our plan would be.  After much deliberation, we decided to continue up to black point and try to fix the engine on anchor there (with the assistance of a newly flown in part from Florida), with the hopes of still salvaging some of the visit.  A very kind Bristol 47 sailboat towed us out of the cut the next morning at slack tide, which was still very scary as the wind created a “rage” condition of steep, short waves that jerked us around.   We managed to sail the 30 miles up the Exuma sound in high swell but safe conditions and had an adrenaline filled downwind run through Dotham cut (hitting over 8 knots), passing by the steep rock walls closely but safely.  We anchored under sail and even managed to get in to have a celebration drink with Caitie’s parents at their rental cottage.

We’ve ordered our replacement parts and have had to sail off and onto anchor again, to move to a slightly safer location for a heavy northerly front coming in tonight.  We have been channeling the spirit of Lin and Larry Pardey (wherever they are), as their books of sailing around the world in small boats without engines have been sources of inspiration and awe on our trip so far.

Although this has been really challenging, emotionally and logistically, to deal with this situation, it has been a learning experience and will hopefully make a good story… Once it’s all sorted out :)

PS – Thank you so so much to our boat friends (and family) for reaching out to offer assistance, encouragement and kind words these past few days.  We are beyond grateful and only hope we can pay it forward.

M & C

The heart of the ICW

I think we can say we’ve entered the heart of the ICW…

The water is now shallow all the time and we are constantly on the lookout for shoaling (especially after two “soft groundings” in the middle of the marked channel – probably no worse feeling),

The pelicans are almost outnumbering the seagulls (well…almost),

The houses are starting to get more and more colourful, and

WE’VE BEEN SEEING DOLPHINS!

The only thing we’re missing is warm weather, but we keep telling ourselves it’s coming :)

We’ve been slacking a bit on the photos – it doesn’t help that whenever we point the camera towards a dolphin, they get bashful (still no good pics yet but we hope they’re comin’!).  Also, it’s been FREEZING…hard to operate a camera with winter gloves on

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We had one exciting day in Mile Hammock Bay.  We decided to sit at anchor and wait out thunderstorms (which ended up being upgraded to a tornado watch), and the weather was crazy!  Pouring rain one second, sunny the next,  24 degrees fahrenheit with 100% humidity…it was wild.  I took a quick video (sry for the low quality, but you get the idea):

Later that night, we watched a boat drag anchor, try to re-set, but get snagged on another poor soul who had been in the anchorage all day with us.  It was painful to watch, buuuuutttt not so painful that I couldn’t snap a a quick iPad photo when noone was looking :)

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To New York, and Beyond!

We’re bouncing back, baby!!!!

So we were stuck in Haverstraw Marina (aka purgatory) for a couple weeks, but we’re outta there!

So our roller furling repair was quoted at $3200, but we managed to get out of there for under $1600 (thanks to some sweat equity courtesy of Caitie and yours truly)  We’re outta there!

So we had one nasty experience at anchor where it was blowing 20+ knots the night we left the marina, resulting in shifts sleeping/watching for anchor slippage, but at least WE’RE OUTTA THERE!

Frankly everything is looking up – We’re making progress again.  Who knew how good it felt to be on the move (and, more importantly), have decent weather!

Trying out the new headstay w/New York City in the distance

Trying out the new headstay w/New York City in the distance

 

Today we did the rip down the Hudson River to Sandy Hook, New Jersey.  At first, we weren’t sure how far we were going to get (because I, Mark, slept in this morning after a long and tiring night on anchor watch Wednesday).  We were targeting an anchorage behind the Statue of Liberty for an afternoon anchor…but as soon as we hit New York Harbour, we had the current in our favour and were going 10-11 knots!!  It was the fastest we’d been in the boat, and was extra crazy due to the hundreds of other boats/ferries flying around in all directions.

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Needless to say…we were happy to get through that chaos and decided to stretch it the extra 15 miles to Sandy Hook.

The anchoring process here wasn’t fun (first solid argument b/w Caitie and I so far), but we got it on the 4th try.

Even after that stress, though, we had a magic moment where a gorgeous white dove landed on the boat out of nowhere.  We were both a little awestruck…we continued our anchoring and he hopped onto my shoulder!!  It was so surreal!  Then he flew over to Caitie’s shoulder!!  We took the mandatory pics and feel it must have been a good omen.  Right?!

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Tomorrow just may be the day we start our trek down the Atlantic coast.  Wish us luck!

 

New Solenoid, New York, New News

We’re a little overdue for a post, so here goes!

Where did we leave off….Poughkeepsie @ Mariners on the Hudson (Wednesday last week)?  Yeah that’s about right…What can I say?  It was nice to have a place to tie the boat, but resulted in the worst nights sleep due to the current/waves/exposed nature of the place.

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Also, it was quite literally the shittiest dock we’ve ever had the pleasure of stepping onto (tip of the cap to the seagulls & geese that call this dock home – nice work guys)

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From there we went to Haverstraw Bay, and after navigating the tricky entrance, we had two of the nicest days at anchor.  The weather was great, the anchor held well, and it was nice to have some solitude for a change.  I managed to sneak ashore and grab a replacement zinc for the heat exchanger (thank god – see photo below comparing new & old), and we caught an amazing sunrise on the morning we departed.

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We then headed over to Half Moon Bay Marina, where we kept the boat for the weekend while we dashed into the city!!!  Although we were keen to get lots of photos in the big apple, we only got two at the train station on the way in.  We got ZERO photos in the city itself…and frankly weren’t too bummed about that.  We were pre-occupied with soaking up the awesomeness.

We had an amazing time even though it was just a couple of days blasting around Manhattan and Brooklyn.  It’s always so fun going to NYC – there’s always something new to discover.

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After the weekend, we came back to a boat that wouldn’t start.  At all.  We’d been having problems with our starter solenoid, and it seems like it had finally died for good.  Steve (marina manager/nicest guy ever) ripped us across the river in his jetboat to buy a replacement from the marine store across the way, and $40 later I’d picked up a new/better version of the solenoid (see below – the new one is heavy duty/steel, the old one is plastic).  After the installation, Tara turned over instantly, and put a big smile on my face.

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Oh yeah one more thing…we got engaged this weekend!  Happy (Canadian) Thanksgiving!